Although the Good & Gather ketchup wasn't quite as tasty as name brands, particularly when it came time to dunk french fries in our samples, it would still be just fine on a burger or hot dog laden with other condiments. Is that big? . The story of. He keeps a parrot. Like your ketchup super-tart and almost too tangy? If only it were that easy. It was a yellow mustard, made from ground white mustard seed with turmeric and vinegar, which gave it a mild, slightly metallic taste. (Have you ever heard of the name Rose Marie Pangborn? In the early seventies, Grey Poupon was no more than a hundred-thousand-dollar-a-year business. I want to optimize one of the segments. to alter the taste. Julie Butsch, Hartland, WisconsinGo to Recipe This reduced-sugar and -salt ketchup from Target's "upscale" brand, Good & Gather, isn't quite on par with our top picks, either, but it was our favorite condiment from Target or rival Walmart. In coffee, a 71 is something youll die for.. Freddy Krueger may invite himself to dinner! But what we know today as ketchup emerged out of a debate that raged in the first years of the last century over benzoate, a preservative widely used in late-nineteenth-century condiments. Related:Exotic Condiments to Add Zing to Meals. This is a model for building spaghetti sauce. Three-Bean Baked BeansI got this recipe from my aunt and made a couple of changes to suit our tastes. Isn't the ketchup business today exactly where mustard was thirty years ago? Moskowitz, who is 60 . "The tagline in the commercial was that this was one of life's finer pleasures," Larry Elegant, who wrote the original Grey Poupon spot, says, "and that, along with the Rolls-Royce, seemed to impart to people's minds that this was something truly different and superior.". He uses maple syrup, not corn syrup, which gives him a quarter of the sugar of Heinz. Our Test Kitchen pros also kept these criteria in mind: After eight ketchup brands were sampled, four rose to the top. Give a baby soup, and then soup with MSG (an amino-acid salt that is pure umami), and the baby will go back for the MSG soup every time, the same way a baby will always prefer water with sugar to water alone. Susan Wuckowitsch, Lenexa, KansasGo to Recipe It turns a soup from salt water into a food.". M any years ago, one mustard dominated the supermarket shelves: French's. Just as Grey Poupon got fantastic mileage out of the faux-French presentation, with ketchup you should hint at some exotic Asian background perhaps Indonesian or something. One of the reasons why so many Americans love Heinz may be because Heinz has been making ketchup since 1876 longer than just about anyone and has set the standard for how the condiment "should" taste. I pared down the recipe to make it lower in fat and calories. Tammy Neubauer, Ida Grove, IowaGo to Recipe The story of World's Best Ketchup cannot properly be told without a man from White Plains, New York, named Howard Moskowitz. Alana Simmons, Johnstown, PennsylvaniaGo to Recipe For thick ketchup that stays put, grab a bottle ofHunts Tomato Ketchup. There are five known fundamental tastes in the human palate: salty, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. Taste of HomeRanchero SupperThis hearty dish is fast and easy to fix after a busy workday. What a delicious, healthy classic! This deep red ketchup was thicker in consistency and had a well-balanced flavornot too sweet or tangy. They put the mustard in little foil packets and distributed them with airplane mealswhich was a brand-new idea at the time. But there is theory and there is practice. And it is because of Grey Poupon that a man named Jim Wigon decided, four years ago, to enter the ketchup business. But he could think of nothing else. How many products run the sensory spectrum like this? Jim Wigon runs his ketchup business under the brand World's Best Ketchup out of Norwood, Massachusetts, in a low-slung building behind an industrial equipment rental shop. Cheapism may earn a commission if you buy through a link on our site. But that makes it easy to forget that sometimes happiness can be found in having what weve always had and everyone else is having. The agency came back with an idea: A Rolls-Royce is driving down a country road. Moskowitz started again, this time asking the computer to optimize for Segment 2. Pepsi knew that anything below eight per cent sweetness was not sweet enough and anything over twelve per cent was too sweet. Taste of Home is America's #1 cooking magazine. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. Now it's a family favorite, and even the kids ask for this baked bbq chicken breast. Wigon is form Boston. The rise of Grey Poupon proved that the American supermarket shopper was willing to pay morein this case, $3.99 instead of $1.49 for eight ouncesas long as what they were buying carried with it an air of sophistication and complex aromatics. Blackberry Sriracha Chicken SlidersDump everything in a slow cooker and then watch these spicy-sweet sliders become an instant party-time classic. Spicy Butterscotch WingsWe love big-time-spicy chicken wings. Malcolm Gladwell Wigon had a simple vision: build a better ketchup and the world will beat a path to your door World's Best Dill ketchup on fried catfish is a marvellous thing, but not as sensorily complete as Heinz, Entrepreneur Jim Wigon was sure he could make a tomato ketchup to rival Heinz. It's very quick to make, and I usually have mostif not allof the ingredients already on hand. That makes sense, evolutionarily, because through much of human history that is the age at which children would have first begun to gather and forage for themselves, and those who strayed from what was known and trusted would never have survived. Its success showed, furthermore, that the boundaries of taste and custom were not fixed: that just because mustard had always been yellow didnt mean that consumers would use only yellow mustard. In the same aisle at Zabars that day two other demonstrations were going on, so that people were starting at one end with free chicken sausage, sampling a slice of prosciutto, and then pausing at the Worlds Best stand before heading for the cash register. The thing about Coke and Pepsi is that they are absolutely gorgeous, Judy Heylmun, a vice-president of Sensory Spectrum, Inc., in Chatham, New Jersey, says. Christine Grimm, Mount Wolf, PennsylvaniaGo to Recipe It was little too heavy on the onion powder for our taste, and too thin to cling satisfactorily to fries. The slow cooker makes it easy to keep warm on a buffet. He runs his ketchup businessunder the brand World's Best Ketchupout of the catering business of his partner, Nick Schiarizzi, in Norwood, Massachusetts, just off Route 1, in a low-slung building behind an industrial-equipment-rental shop. He uses maple syrup, not corn syrup, which gives him a quarter of the sugar of Heinz. Ketchup (through an accident of history marvelously explained by another exquisite Gladwell interlocutor, food historian Andrew F. Smith) perfectly balances "the five fundamental tastes in the human palate: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami." Ahhh. If you sifted carefully through the data, though, you could find patterns, and Moskowitz learned that most peoples preferences fell into one of three broad groups: plain, spicy, and extra-chunky, and of those three the last was the most important. The Worlds Best, though, had a completely different view, a different profile, from the Heinz, Chambers said. Then one day the Heublein Company, which owned Grey Poupon, discovered something remarkable: if you gave people a mustard taste test, a significant number had only to try Grey Poupon once to switch from yellow mustard. Then he dramatically increased the concentration of vinegar, so that his ketchup had twice the acidity of most other ketchups; now ketchup was sour, another of the fundamental tastes. My wife is killing me. And it isnt just Worlds Best that is struggling. But the one thing he can control is ketchup. Umami adds body, Gary Beauchamp, who heads the Monell Chemical Senses Center, in Philadelphia, says. They are so yummy and easy to make! View HW7-_English from ENGL 020 at Cuyamaca College. Usually, when you taste a store cola, all the notes are kind of spiky and usually the citrus is the first thing to spike out. Primal Kitchen uses balsamic vinegar, rather than white. That sugar also evens out the tang of the vinegar just enough to give Heinz Simply ketchup a balance and depth of flavor few can match. We know that when it comes to ketchup, people are dedicated to their brands in much the same way people are dedicated to brands of mayo or hot sauce. In 1993, he became the newspaper's New York City bureau chief. Some of them would look slightly perplexed and walk away, and others would nod and pick up a jar. This option was the most tomato forward and had many testers feeling a bit nostalgic. But hed also got two parking tickets and had to pay for a hotel room, so he wasnt going home with money in his pocket. CurrywurstWhen I used to I lived in Berlin, Germany, one of my favorite things to eat was currywurst and pomme frites. Jim Wigon runs his ketchup business under the brand World's Best Ketchup out of Norwood, Massachusetts, in a low-slung building behind an industrial equipment rental shop. Jim Wigon, inspired by Grey Poupon's success, put great effort into creating the 'World's Best' ketchup. How many things in the supermarket run the sensory spectrum like this? This family-favorite BBQ chicken sandwich filling is a cinch to make. "The thing about Coke and Pepsi is that they are absolutely gorgeous," says Judy Heylmun, vice-president of Sensory Spectrum, in Chatham, New Jersey. What was true about tomato sauce when you added visible solids and put it in a jar was somehow not true about tomato sauce when you added vinegar and sugar and put it in a bottle. It had by far the most vinegary bite of the ketchups we sampled; too much, in our opinion. Each tester, according to protocol, took the fries one by one, dipped them into the cupall the way, right to the bottombit off the portion covered in ketchup, and then contemplated the evidence of their senses. This smoothes out that familiar tangy bite, but the ketchup lacks the hints of spice and depth of flavor of our top choices. This is exactly the type of ketchup we all want to have on the table at our cookouts and in the fridge when we whip up some frozen fries in the air fryer. Generic colas and ketchups have what Moskowitz calls a hooka sensory attribute that you can single out, and ultimately tire of. But Moskowitz does not believe that consumerseven spaghetti loversknow what they desire if what they desire does not yet exist. It took a long time for the food world to catch up with Moskowitz. pik! For a spicier taste, eliminate the ketchup and increase the amount of salsa to 1 cup. It is possible, of course, that ketchup is waiting for its own equivalent of extra-chunky - the magic formula that will satisfy an unmet need. Note: Cheapism does not accept or publish guest blog posts. These were designed to differ in every conceivable way: spiciness, sweetness, tartness, saltiness, thickness, aroma, mouth feel, cost of ingredients, and so forth. They charged more, convinced that the public would pay more for a better ketchup, and they were right. They had a strong tomato taste, with just a light vinegar touch. Taste of HomeCranberry MeatballsLots of people have asked me for this recipe, but I knew I had a real winner when my grandmother asked me for it! Just thaw and reheat it for a quick dinner. We Tried 20 Popular Hot Sauces These Are the Best, How to Make Fast Food Sauces With Copycat Recipes, We Tried 11 Hot Dogs and You Won't Believe Which One Was Best, The Surprising History of the Humble Hamburger. "Here there was this third segment, people who liked their spaghetti sauce with lots of stuff in it, and it was completely untapped. When it comes to America's favorite brand of ketchup, Heinz wins hands down, according to research conducted by Statista. The Sept. 6th issue of the New Yorker has an article by Malcolm Gladwell (not online, sorry) about Jim Wigon and his gourmet ketchup business. 12 m bottles of ketchup a year and exporting them around the world1 But, not everyone likes it. And then the cinnamon. He made up experimental batches of Diet Pepsi with every conceivable degree of sweetness8 per cent, 8.25 per cent, 8.5, and on and on up to 12gave them to hundreds of people, and looked for the concentration that people liked the most. We are no longer supporting IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide site experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Immediately after conducting the ketchup study, Chambers dispatched a team to Bangkok to do an analysis of fruitbananas, mangoes, rose apples, and sweet tamarind. But there is theory and there is practice. There's a man in the back seat in a suit with a plate of beef on a silver tray. Standard practice in the food industry would have been to convene a focus group and ask spaghetti eaters what they wanted. A really cheap store brand will have a big, fat cinnamon note sitting on top of everything.. Julie Currington, Gahanna, OhioGo to Recipe There are a fair number of low- and no-sugar ketchups out there, including a few in this roundup. Ashley Lecker, Green Bay, WisconsinGo to Recipe Then comes what is known in the business as the "reveal." He uses maple syrup, not corn syrup, which gives him a quarter of the sugar of Heinz. Worlds Best Dill ketchup on fried catfish, for instance, is a marvellous thing. Howard Moskowitz stood up to the Platonists and said there are no universals. He has written on a wide range of topics, including the science of cool hunting, race and sports, physical genius, the concept of moral hazard and health care, and the difference between puzzles and mysteries. French's Tomato Ketchup, 32 oz : $3.20: Buy on Amazon: 3: Heinz Tomato Ketchup - Dip And Squeeze Ketchup - (Pack of 150) x 0.95 Ounce Ketchup Pockets -. So-Easy Sloppy JoesEverybody in the family will love the zesty, fun flavor of this simple staple. But he sold only 90 jars a day and didn't draw a salary in five years. His ketchup was one of a kind and wanted everyone to know it was the world's best ketchup. Ketchup triggers, in equal measure, all five of the fundamental tastes; one food theorist calls it "the Esperanto of cuisine. Cheeseburger Crescent RingThis is an easy entree that can be put together quickly after a long day at work. Even in a blind test, Heinz Tomato Ketchup came out on top. How Slutty Vegan Puts the Party in Plant-Based Food. They had been asking the wrong question. He starts. TMB studioTempura Chicken WingsWhen I moved to Kansas City from Texas, I brought many of my mom's best-loved recipes with me, including these saucy sweet-and-sour wings. He was a 1995 National Magazine Award finalist for an article on mammography published in The New Republic. Wigon says. An intriguing read, about ketchup, of all things. Then he took the prototypes on the road, and asked people to eat between eight and 10 small bowls of different spaghetti sauces over two hours and rate them on a scale of one to 100. The beef doubles as a warm sandwich filling, too.Chris Snyder, Boulder, Colorado
We felt that Worlds Best seemed to be more like a sauce. She was trying to be helpful. He made up experimental batches with every conceivable degree of sweetness - 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, and on and on up to 12% - gave them to hundreds of people, and looked for the concentration that people liked the most. Make it extra-special by serving the meat sauce over spaetzle. It's very hard to do that well. Thats if you were to treat everybody as one big happy family. This time the ratings came in at 82, but now Segment 1 had fallen ten points, to 68. The company ran tasteful print ads in upscale food magazines. Skillet Shepherd's PieThis is the best shepherd's pie recipe I've ever tasted. - Irma Schnuelle, Manitowoc, Wisconsin.Go to Recipe Why? To aid in the rating process, the tasters surrounded themselves with little bowls of sweet and sour and salty solutions, and portions of Contadina tomato paste, Hunts tomato sauce, and Campbells tomato juice, all of which represent different concentrations of tomato-ness. Its fresh ketchup. Best Ketchup Overall: Heinz. Then he took the prototypes on the roadto New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, and Jacksonvilleand asked people in groups of twenty-five to eat between eight and ten small bowls of different spaghetti sauces over two hours and rate them on a scale of one to a hundred. Stephanie Hurd, Oxford, AlabamaGo to Recipe And then the cinnamon. But if I do the sensory segmentation, I can get 70, 71, 72. (new Image()).src = 'https://capi.connatix.com/tr/si?token=bd5526af-9c84-429a-baca-e1c4e1072ef9&cid=877050e7-52c9-4c33-a20b-d8301a08f96d'; cnxps.cmd.push(function () { cnxps({ playerId: "bd5526af-9c84-429a-baca-e1c4e1072ef9" }).render("7917806a0d7f4109a1cb2a4492c81a1a"); }); Overall, this thick, glossy ketchup had the perfect tang, perfect color and great tomato flavor. The post-benzoate ketchups also doubled the concentration of sugarso now ketchup was also sweetand all along ketchup had been salty and bitter. After I came back to the states, I created my own version, which is a pretty close second.Julie Merriman, Seattle, WashingtonGo to Recipe Pepsi knew that anything below 8% sweetness was not sweet enough and anything over 12% was too sweet. So Moskowitz did the logical thing. Mustard now comes in dozens of varieties. Member Benefits; Government Affairs; Job Board; Regions Menu Toggle. So are Hellmans mayonnaise and Sara Lee poundcake. It was extraordinarily successful.. Jim Wigon wanted to create the Grey Poupon of ketchup. But it is easy to forget that sometimes happiness is having what we've always had and everyone else is having. It's got less vinegary bite than Heinz, with a fuller, more savory flavor that hints at onion, green pepper, and allspice. They scored it 67 and 57, respectively. The slightly sweet sauce nicely complements the spicy pork sausage. Moskowitz shrugs. The artificial sweetener aspartame had just become available, and Pepsi wanted Moskowitz to figure out the perfect amount of sweetener for a can of Diet Pepsi. By signing up, you agree to our User Agreement and Privacy Policy & Cookie Statement. They put the mustard in little foil packets and distributed them with airplane mealswhich was a brand-new idea at the time. Once you start looking for the sources of human variability, though, the old orthodoxy goes out the window. He starts with red peppers, Spanish onions, garlic, and a high-end tomato paste. He runs his ketchup business - under the brand World's Best Ketchup - out of the catering business of his partner, Nich Schaiarizzi, in He starts with red peppers, Spanish onions, garlic, and a high-end tomato paste. We're not quite sure what all funky flavors are that we detected in this. The leader of the renegade band was an entrepreneur from Pittsburgh named Henry JHeinz. But it is now. Smith dipped one of my French fries into the homemade sauce. Bright with a hint of bitterness on the back end. He pours his ketchup into a clear glass ten-ounce jar, and sells it for three times the price of Heinz, and for the past few years he has crisscrossed the country, peddling World's Best in six flavorsregular, sweet, dill, garlic, caramelized onion, and basilto specialty grocery stores and supermarkets. Target's "other" house brand ketchup had the smoothest mouthfeel of our samples, but otherwise was very similar to Great Value taste-wise. It adds tanginess and a touch of tomato flavor to recipes like appetizer meatballs, baked beans, sloppy joes and more. Family-Favorite Cheeseburger PastaI created this cheeseburger pasta recipe to satisfy a craving. If thats your style, youll want to addDel Monte Tomato Ketchup to your shopping cart. But Moskowitz does not believe that consumers - even spaghetti-lovers - know what they desire, if what they desire does not yet exist. And all along ketchup had been salty and bitter. In the food world that almost never happens; even among the most successful food brands, only about one in a hundred have that kind of conversion rate. They have beautiful notesall flavors are in balance. Tomatoes vary in acidity and sweetness and the ratio of solids to liquid, according to the seed variety used, the year they are harvested, the soil in which they are grown, and the weather. We detected a sharper, snappier presence of vinegar in our sample of Heinz's "classic" ketchup than in our top pick, Heinz Simply Tomato, and a very subtle extra sweetness. Unless all those variables are tightly controlled, one batch of ketchup can end up too watery and another can be too strong. Others were detailed to soy and kimchi in South Korea, and Chamberss wife led a delegation to Italy to analyze ice cream. Cheeseburger Stuffed Pasta ShellsYou could call this a comfort food mashup made in heaven. Yes, this ketchup did deliver a sweet tomato flavor that we just love with fries and onion rings, but Frenchs also gave us a bit more. "The other comment from the panel was that these elements were really not blended at all," Chambers went on. In the gourmet-ketchup world, there is River Run and Uncle Daves, from Vermont, and Muir Glen Organic and Mrs. Tomato Head Roasted Garlic Peppercorn Catsup, in California, and dozens of othersand every year Heinzs overwhelming share of the ketchup market just grows. Brenda Severson, Norman, OklahomaGo to Recipe The ketchup tasting took place over four hours, on two consecutive mornings. Unless all those variables are tightly controlled, one batch of ketchup can end up too watery and another can be too strong. It is because of Grey Poupon that the standard American supermarket today has an entire mustard section. We usually serve them at birthday parties. Hunt's is the second most popular brand of ketchup, according to Statista, but it's definitely no Heinz clone. "Serve these effortless appetizers with toothpicks at parties or holiday get-togethers," she suggests.Go to Recipe "Try my ketchup!" He typed in a few commands, instructing the computer to give him the formulation that would score the highest with those people in Segment 1. If you looked hard in the grocery store, you might find something in the specialty-foods section called Grey Poupon, which was Dijon mustard, made from the more pungent brown mustard seed. Dill Pickle Hamburger PizzaMy husband's favorite foods are pizza and cheeseburgers, so I combined the two in a pizza with mayo and dill pickle juice topping. So in about 1989/90, we launched Prego extra-chunky. Last year, Edgar Chambers, who runs the sensory analysis centre at Kansas State University, conducted a joint assessment of World's Best and Heinz. He runs his ketchup businessunder the brand Worlds Best Ketchupout of the catering business of his partner, Nick Schiarizzi, in Norwood, Massachusetts, just off Route 1, in a low-slung building behind an industrial-equipment-rental shop. But what if you made ketchup from ripe tomatoes, giving it the density it needed to resist degradation? Nineteenth-century ketchups had a strong tomato taste, with just a light vinegar touch. But he Was the croissant invented in 1683, by the Viennese, in celebration of their defeat of the invading Turks? Phyllis Schmalz, Kansas City, KansasGo to Recipe The difference between high and low amplitude is the difference between my son and a great pianist playing Ode to Joy on the piano, Chambers says. Jana Christian, Farson, WyomingGo to Recipe Unfortunately, Wigon doesn't seem to be doing it correctly. The ratio of tomato solids to liquid in World's Best is much higher than in Heinz, and the maple syrup gives it an unmistakable sweet kick. he would say, in his broad Boston accent, to the customers who seemed most impressed. In front of him, on a small table, was a silver tureen filled with miniature chicken and beef meatballs, a box of toothpicks, and a dozen or so open jars of his ketchup. He's named his company "World's Best Ketchup," which is just silly. A really cheap store brand will have a big, fat cinnamon note sitting on top of everything.". But there was less salt, and no discernible vinegar. Imagine a diner. Jim Wigon had a simple vision: build a better ketchupthe way Grey Poupon built a better mustardand the world will beat a path to your door. It is impossible to recount the story of the World's Best Ketchup without the contributions made by Howard Moskowitz, who lives in White Plains, New York. Party MeatballsThese meatballs in a sweet, tangy sauce can be made a day in advance and reheated. Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. The consistency was notably thinner than that of Heinz, and the flavor was less intense, though still a balanced mix of sweet, savory, and sour. They should have been looking for the perfect Diet Pepsis. It was decided that the analysis would be helped if the ketchups were tasted on French fries. "They have beautiful notes; all flavours are in balance. pik! He knocked on doors and tried to explain his idea about the plural nature of perfection, and no one answered. But the only reference Smith could find to either story was in the Larousse Gastronomique of 1938. To compete against Heinz, he had to try something dramatic, like substituting maple syrup for corn syrup, ramping up the tomato solids. But what was Wigon to do? There was no pattern and one day Moskowitz realised why. China. Cranberry Turkey Sloppy JoesWant a holiday spin on sloppy joes? Heinz has created six flavors--regular, sweet, dill, garlic, caramelized onion, and basil. The biggest tomato producer in the world today? Smith paused, for dramatic effect. You can taste the tomato. Ketchup was, to his mind, the most nearly perfect of all the tomatos manifestations. People used it on hot dogs and bologna. When Heinz moved to ripe tomatoes and increased the percentage of tomato solids, he made ketchup, first and foremost, a potent source of umami. They're just as flavorful after freezing. Usually, when you taste a store cola its and here she made a series of pik! Measured against the monotony that confronted Howard Moskowitz twenty years ago, this is progress. My family loved it! Hes a thickset man in his early fifties, with a full salt-and-pepper beard. Do you know it? Testers picked up on onion, garlic and even some balsamic vinegar notes. They are playing the same notes, but they blend better with the great pianist. Pepperidge Farm shortbread cookies are considered to have high amplitude. This would also be a great option for pickier eaters. It may be hard today, fifteen years laterwhen every brand seems to come in multiple varietiesto appreciate how much of a breakthrough this was. Even in a blind test,Heinz Tomato Ketchupcame out on top. He spoke at industry conferences and audiences shrugged. The tasting began with a plastic spoon. Beefy Chili DogsFor years, people have told me I make the best hot dog chili out there. But just because more Americans say they prefer Heinz to Hunt's or any other brand does that mean it's really the best brand of ketchup you can buy? "Back in the 70s, someone else - I think it was Rag - tried to do an 'Italian style' ketchup," says Moskowitz. On one side was the ketchup establishment, which believed that it was impossible to make ketchup without benzoate and that benzoate was not harmful in the amounts used. Would you have any Grey Poupon? They would look down at the array of open jars, and Wigon would impale a meatball on a toothpick, dip it in one of his ketchups, and hand it to them with a flourish. Smith is a scholar, trained as a political scientist, intent on bringing rigor to the world of food. But you can with one of those private-label colas that you get in the supermarket. The husbands and kids are left at home, but the slow cooker comes with us! As our Executive Culinary Director Sarah Farmer put it: This is a French frys best friend.. The agency came back with an idea: A Rolls-Royce is driving down a country road. "You know why you like it so much?" Smiths specialty is the tomato, however, and over the course of many scholarly articles and booksThe History of Home-Made Anglo-American Tomato Ketchup, for Petits Propos Culinaires, for example, and The Great Tomato Pill War of the 1830s, for _The Connecticut Historical Society Bulletin_Smith has argued that some critical portion of the history of culinary civilization could be told through this fruit. If only it were that easy. "Pardon me. The leader of the renegade band was an entrepreneur out of Pittsburgh named Henry J. Heinz. 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